Two of the three couscous related items on my bucket list were checked off in the past 24 hours. The first was going to eat Senegalese couscous at Upstairs, an ex-pat pub in Rabat. Moroccans told me it would be horrible. Americans told me it would be fantastic. Turns out it was yummy and different. Take that, Morocco! It was spicy and that is just about as much as I can divulge until I live independently from Moroccans.
Moving on to the next check on my checklist: Learn to make KsKsou. Well, today I learned. It took four hours, but I learned. It turned into a really interesting experience, with a lot of conversation with my host mom. Turns out my French has gotten pretty good, and we can just talk for hours without frustration. There is a lot of code mixing between French and Arabic, but in the end everything is understood and I finally feel comfortable expressing who I really am. Turns out my host mom is just as much of a goof as my real mom and we had a real hands on learning experience, with me grabbing her glasses when they fogged up from steam, and helping carry huge patters and pots back and forth. I think she thinks my name is Kelly, but I don't really care.
The recipe for Moroccan couscous goes something like this:
1) Pour the couscous (1 kilo) on a platter and mix with 1 Tbsp salt, 1 tsp pepper, and a pinch of saffron. Then mix in 1/2 cup of oil and 1 cup of water. Fluff the couscous with your hands so there are no lumps.
2) While the couscous sits, peel and slice in large chunks: 5 parsnips, 6 small zucchini, 4 carrots.
In another bowl cut up 4 large pieces of pumpkin (about 1/4 pumpkin), and 3 potatoes.
In another bowl grate 1 large onion.
In another bowl seed and slice 1 tomato.
Prepare a bundle of cilantro tied together with string.
3) Put cilantro bundle, onion, and 1 small cut up chicken in the bottom half of the couscous steamer (or a large pot). Cover with sufficient salt, pepper, turmeric, and saffron. Add 1 cup oil, 1 cup water. Boil on medium low for 5 minutes.
4) Add 1 cup chickpeas, or other soaked beans, and grate in the flesh of one tomato. Return to boil for 5 minutes.
5) Add 6-8 cups water and cover. (Add a pinch of ginger)
6) Meanwhile, oil couscous steamer (colander top of traditional couscous pot) and add another cup of water to couscous which should have almost doubled in size across the past 45 minutes.
7) Place couscous in oiled steamer and add to pot when water is at a rolling boil. Let steam for about 1/2 hour to 45 minutes.
8) Remove couscous, add veggies (not including pumpkin, potato, and tomato) to chicken broth, and cover. Place couscous in the platter, fluff again with 2 more cups of water, and return to steamer. Place steamer on pot again.
9) 45 minutes later, repeat process. Add remaining vegetables to the pot and fluff couscous with only 1 cup of water.
10) 1 hour later remove couscous a final time. Strain veggies through a colander and reserve the broth. Add 1/2 cup butter to couscous and allow to melt while fluffing. Add a cup or two of broth, depending on consistency.
11) Place couscous in serving dish and form into a volcano shape. Place chicken pieces in center and surround with vegetables. Pour broth into bowls and place all on table. Eat with large spoon. Bs'ha (to your health!)!
( Also, try one of these fruits if you are ever in Morocco: nefle. Yum!)
